Suit Is Decent, Tie Is The Highlight
Posted on March 20 2019
In the pursuit of individuality and relaxation, the norms of classic men's wear are no longer overemphasized.
But there is no need to feel sorry for it. Because it is ultimately the root of culture, and time is the nutrient.
At present, the situation of the tie is just like the waistcoat of the suit. It seems to be a dispensable existence, but it has stirred up the same fashion trend in the past.
Just imagine that a hundred steps away, a suit is certainly decent, but can really catch the eye of others, often inadvertent details, such as the collar. Because the collar is always in the focus of the line of sight.
Whether to wear a tie that is strong contrast to the clothes or a responded one, it can always be impressive in just a few seconds.
The Choose of Tie
As early as the mid-to-late 18th century, four-handed ties were available, usually in shorter lengths and with thinner linings, but their shapes looked similar to today’s ties.
With the change of shirt and suit collar, it will narrow slightly in the mid-1940s to the mid-1960s. And gradually become wider in the 1970s and 1980s.
In the 1990s, most ties were 8.5 to 9cm wide, which is now the more common style.
As for structure, the original tie is actually put a piece of square material along the diagonal respectively from both sides to the middle fold for many times, four times a hem, but on the other side is three times, this approach can make the tie with good support structure, and relatively full, easy to build a flexible bow tie and elegant feeling, also is what we call seven fold tie.
It wasn’t until 1926 that Jesse Langsdorf, a tie maker in New York, came up with a way to cut fabric on a bias and divide it into three miters. This technique improves the tenacity of the tie, and also reduces the cost of making the tie, which is stiffened with a lining when folded into shape.
When choosing a tie, you should decide the structure of tie according to fabric.
The thinner is suitable for full lining to enhance the sense of weight, otherwise the wind will blow when it is blown; and moderate or thick fabrics can choose to use unlined or half lining to preserve the ethereal feeling, otherwise use full wool or linen will make the tie stand straight on the chest, which looks very rigid.
In general, the silk fabrics with moderate thickness can keep crisp when tying, but do not lose softness, just facilitate to form flexible bow-tie and "small dimple" in the end.
As for printing or jacquard can be chosen according to their preferences, jacquard texture will be more obvious. If you pursue the smooth luster, then please choose printing.
The Way to Tie a Tie
In the 1930s and 1940s, the duke was fond of wearing a special wide and thick tie. This kind of knot could provide a symmetrical and strong big triangle bow tie, suitable for the shirt with a wide collar and more formal occasions, and it left a mark on the duke with its powerful influence. It is better to consider the space between the left and right collars. The larger space can be filled with the full Windsor knot as the first choice.
According to its name “Half Windsor Knot”, we can easily know that it is a simplified version of the Windsor knot, which eliminate the need for a double knot. But it also makes the triangular bow tie a bit smaller.
This is a relatively simple way to tie a knot, but compared to the first two methods out of the bow tie effect is relatively flat, the tie is prone to deviation. Four-in-hand knot will be more suitable for flexible tie. It can be used both in daily work and business occasions.